Introduction

Between August 19 and September 1, 1996 our family travelled most of Route 66 - the twenty-four hundred mile strip of highway between Chicago and L.A. Along the way, we met some cool people and visited some wonderful motels, and tried to discover why this thin line crossing eight states continues to occupy a central place in American myth and folklore. Even after losing its status as a highway in 1985, people from around the world continue to seek out its heart. Using guidebooks, videos, and inspiration, they struggle to survive the winding turns, abrupt breaks, and lonely stretches. Jenny, Vienna, and I tried to plan well for our attempt, but no road itinerary survives more than about ten miles intact - at least, not with us. Still, as you will read and see, the old highway retains much of the character that shaped it. Thus any itinerary would be almost unnecessary. There is a fragility to this place. And a hardness too. Most of all, there is a collective consciousness that Route 66 is special. We hope you will agree.

This set of pages is not designed to be a full-fledged travelogue. You will not find food reviews or road maps. We don't even attempt to recall every tourist trap or souvenir shop that caught our eye. Instead, we've attempted to fix our memories of the motels along the way in a format that allows sharing and comment. Our travels have convinced us that time is running out for many of these wonderful pieces of Americana. Since the bypassing of Route 66 by various interstates, many roadside motels have lost their vitality - many have closed, some face the inevitable bulldozer. But the survivors thrive on the dream that people will return to the Mother Road, to their clean sheets and comfortable spaces. While we followed the advice of Jack Rittenhouse (A Guide Book to Highway 66), Tom Snyder (Route 66 Traveler's Guide) and Jamie Jensen (Road Trip USA), we were most inspired by Nat King Cole's immortal version of "Route 66" (written by Bobby Troup).

In truth, we stopped where the night fell, and ended up in some wonderful places anyway. The order of this journey, from east to west, is as follows: Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, and California. You might as well start at the beginning. Remember, at the bottom of each state you will be invited to continue onward east or west. We hope you enjoy your virtual journey along America's Main Street and drop us a postcard!

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